Planning

Choosing the Right Tradespeople for Your Renovation Project

Applying for Building Regulations Approval in England

Building Regulations or Planning Permission? Getting the Distinction Right

One of the most common mix-ups on a renovation is assuming that because you don't need planning permission, you don't need approval from anyone. The two systems are entirely separate. Planning permission deals with what a building looks like and how it affects its neighbours; building regulations deal with how it performs. Structure, fire safety, damp proofing, ventilation, drainage, energy efficiency and electrical safety all sit under the Building Regulations 2010, enforced under the Building Act 1984.

Most domestic renovation work is covered. Removing a load-bearing wall, converting a loft, adding a rear extension, replacing windows, fitting a new bathroom or rewiring a kitchen will almost always involve notifiable work. Some minor jobs are exempt, but the exemptions are narrower than most people expect. If you are unsure, ring your local authority building control team before you start — a five-minute phone call at the design stage is far cheaper than remedial work later.

Full Plans or a Building Notice: Which Route Suits Your Project?

In England you have two main ways to apply, and the right choice depends on the scale and complexity of the job.

  • Full plans application. You submit detailed drawings, specifications and, where relevant, structural calculations. The building control body checks them and issues an approval, usually within five weeks, or up to two months if you agree an extension. You get certainty before work begins, which is invaluable if you are borrowing money or the work is complicated. Approval remains valid for three years.
  • Building notice. You provide minimal information and pay a fee, then notify the inspector as the work progresses. It is quicker and needs fewer drawings, so it suits straightforward jobs such as a small extension, a loft conversion or a bathroom refit in a house. There is no formal approval of the design, which means any problems are picked up on site — potentially after the work is built. Building notices are not accepted for work near drains, in flats and other buildings with shared means of escape, or for commercial premises.

Some work can also be self-certified by a registered competent person — for example, notifiable electrical work under Part P or certain heating installations — which avoids a separate application for that element.

Submitting Your Application: What You Actually Need

Whether you apply to your local authority or use an approved inspector from the private sector, the paperwork is similar. Expect to provide:

  • Scaled existing and proposed drawings, including sections and elevations for extensions and lofts.
  • A site or location plan showing the property in relation to boundaries.
  • Structural calculations if any beams, lintels or load-bearing elements are involved.
  • A specification or schedule covering materials, insulation values, glazing and drainage.
  • The application fee, which most authorities split into a plan charge and an inspection charge. Fees vary considerably, so check the current schedule.

You can submit the application yourself, but most homeowners leave it to their architect, designer or builder. Whoever lodges it, make sure you keep a copy of everything. You will need it if you sell the house.

Booking Inspections at the Right Stages

This is where projects most often come unstuck. Building work has to be inspected at defined points, and some of it must not be covered up until it has been seen. Give the building control body at least 24 hours' notice — many ask for 48 — and diarise each stage before the trades arrive.

  • Commencement, before any work starts.
  • Excavation for foundations, before concrete is poured, plus the foundation concrete itself and any reinforcement.
  • Damp-proof course and damp-proof membrane before they are covered.
  • Oversite before the floor slab is laid.
  • Drainage, including trenches and any connections, before backfilling.
  • Roof structure and insulation once the frame is up but before it is closed in.
  • Occupation, if you are moving in before the job is finished.
  • Completion, when everything is done.

If a stage is missed, do not panic — but do not bury it either. Tell the inspector immediately. Most will ask for the work to be exposed again or for a structural engineer's report, and the longer you leave it, the more disruptive that becomes.

The Completion Certificate and Why It Matters

When the work is finished and has been inspected, the building control body issues a completion certificate. Keep it with your deeds. Solicitors will ask for it if you sell or remortgage, and its absence can delay a sale, reduce your asking price or trigger an indemnity policy that protects nobody but the buyer.

If work was carried out without approval, you can apply for a regularisation certificate, which involves exposing and inspecting the work and paying a higher fee. It is deliberately more awkward than applying first, which is the point.

Practical Habits That Keep a Renovation on Track

Appoint your building control body at design stage, not the week before the digger arrives. Ask your builder who is responsible for booking each inspection, and get it in writing. Take dated photographs before anything is covered up. Budget the fees at the outset and add a margin for any extra visits. Do those four things and approval becomes a routine part of the programme rather than the thing that holds it up.

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