Measure Twice, Buy Once

Before you fall in love with a particular enclosure, get to know your bathroom's real dimensions. Small bathrooms are rarely perfectly square, and a few millimetres can be the difference between a door that glides shut and one that clatters against the basin. Measure the width and depth of your intended shower zone at floor level and again at roughly one metre high — walls are often slightly out of plumb, and older properties can be surprisingly wonky.

Take note of anything that might interfere: window reveals, radiators, towel rails, boxing around soil pipes, and the swing of the bathroom door itself. If you're retiling, remember that tiles and adhesive will add roughly 15–20mm to each wall, so measure the finished space rather than the bare plasterboard. Also check the ceiling height if you're considering a large pivot or hinged door, as some need clearance above the frame when fully open.

Pick a Door Type That Earns Its Space

The door is where most small bathrooms are won or lost. A generous enclosure that you can barely step into is a daily frustration, so match the opening mechanism to the room's realities.

• Bi-fold doors: these fold back in panels, usually within the footprint of the tray itself. They're the go-to choice for tight corners because they need very little outward clearance. Check that the folded panels don't foul a nearby toilet or basin when open.
• Pivot doors: hinged on a pivot point rather than an edge, these swing with a sweeping arc. They look sleek and suit corner entries well, but they do demand a clear turning circle, so measure carefully before committing.
• Sliding doors: ideal when there's no room for any outward swing at all. They run on top and bottom tracks, so budget a little extra cleaning time — the bottom track is a magnet for limescale and soap scum.
• Hinged doors: simple and usually the most affordable, but they need around 500–600mm of clear space to open. In a cramped room, that's often space you simply don't have to spare.

If you're stuck for room, a corner-entry enclosure with a bi-fold or pivot door usually offers the best compromise between access and usable floor space.

Trays, Shapes and the Waste Position

Your shower tray shape shapes everything else. Square and rectangular trays are the most space-efficient and generally the cheapest, while quadrant and offset quadrant trays curve into a corner and free up a little more standing room. Pentagonal trays can work in awkward alcoves but limit your choice of doors.

Where the waste exits is often the deciding factor. Moving a soil pipe is expensive and disruptive, so if your existing waste sits in a particular corner, choose a tray that meets it rather than fighting it. Low-profile stone resin trays look smart and feel solid underfoot, while acrylic trays are lighter and warmer but can flex if the floor beneath isn't perfectly level — always bed them in properly with a suitable base.

Glass, Frames and Finishes

Glass thickness matters more than many people expect. 6mm glass is fine for fixed panels and lighter enclosures, but 8mm glass feels noticeably sturdier on doors and reduces that tinny rattle when they close. Most modern enclosures come with an easy-clean coating, which is genuinely worth having in hard-water areas — it won't eliminate cleaning, but it slows the build-up considerably.

Framed enclosures are robust and help hide uneven walls, but chunky frames can make a small room feel boxed in. Semi-frameless and frameless designs open up the space visually, and a slim clear seal along the bottom is far less obtrusive than a thick metal rail. For finishes, chrome remains the safe, bright choice, while matt black and brushed brass add character — just be aware that darker finishes show water spots more readily.

Installation, Sealing and Ventilation

Good installation is what stops a beautiful enclosure from becoming a mouldy headache. Tank the walls behind the tiles, especially in the shower zone, and use a quality sanitary silicone rather than a general-purpose sealant. Seal internal corners first, then the tray-to-wall junction, and let everything cure fully before the first shower.

Ventilation is just as important in a small bathroom. A decent extractor fan, ideally run on for a few minutes after you finish, keeps steam from settling on grout and glass. If there's a window, opening it helps, but it's no substitute for mechanical extraction in a room this size.

Finally, use the enclosure itself to buy back space. A recessed niche between the studs holds bottles without a protruding shelf, and mounting the shower valve on a side wall keeps the entry clear. With careful measuring, the right door type, and a sensibly chosen tray, even the smallest bathroom can deliver a shower that feels generous rather than cramped.